Anthony Delon Vintage nubuck velvet lambskin jacket, 889 euros
Recognize that we were curious in receiving this first piece of the brand Anthony Delon, specializing in leather. A famous name is good, when it suggests charm and glamor is better, but from the moment it comes to pieces of our cloakroom, only the quality counts in the eyes of our technical Areopagus.
And on this point, the discovery of this jacket is a real good surprise. Two points stand out at first: the quality of the skin, which is a good start, and that of the cut as soon as you look further into the room. Which is a good continuation. For this spring issue we preferred to look at a flipped skin, more summery than a classic leather.
The one we discover is simply superb. It is a lamb-velvet “half-breed” color of autumn: a luminous medium brown also very beautiful. His hand is perfect: neither too thin nor too thick. The first would generate a deformation of the jacket in use, the second would give a rigid piece, uncomfortable to use and coarse to the touch, as is the case with many split skins, calf-velvet (the latter being better). but lacking in suppleness) and other crusts, the palm of horror in this area indisputably going to pig-velvet. The lifting is also irreproachable: it is clear that the manufacturer has not practiced any economy detrimental to the quality of the finished product. No hollow parts testifying to the use of less qualitative areas, and especially no superfluous stitching betraying small lifts characteristic of low-end pieces. Touch is also a happiness: unctuous at will, it is an indisputable marker of the quality of a skin.
It should also be emphasized the quality of the cut: the head of the shoulder is impeccable, the high armhole is part of the look of the jacket worn, the length just avoids both the pitfall of the garment too short discovering the bottom of the back and that of the too long piece that blouses at the waist.
Instead of the Ivy Pass that is often observed on this type of jacket, and the bomber neck usually in ribbing, Anthony Delon designed here a mix by reinforcing the collar of his Classic Vintage with ribbing, which prevent the hair and neck from damaging the skin. And will incidentally cleaned with a simple brush stroke. All this is well seen. Going deeper into detail, we also notice the quality of the coastal edges, tight and doubled – the thickness of this English mesh being a pledge quality – and the little paw biker to close the top of the collar, that we do not normally find on this type of jacket.
Inside we discover a good quality bimberg satin lining and two welt pockets but no flap. Good point again for horn buttons and, rarer and more remarkable: for counter-buttons mounted on pig tails : a very neat finish very useful not to damage the skin, especially before the welted buttonholes have softened. Excellent.
At the end of the day, it was a very beautiful piece that we had the opportunity to observe here, moreover totally made in France, which made us think what Goodlife did (which was at the time the absolute reference in skin jackets) about thirty years ago. The quality of the skin, its color, the quality of workmanship and the neat finishes of Vintage Classic nubuck incited us, considering what the market offers elsewhere, to imagine a price set around 2000 euros. It is not so: sold 889 euros, this first jacket of the Anthony Delon 2017 collection is not not that superb: it is also extremely well placed.